Mosiac Stepping Stones

Mosaic stepping stone molds are used in making stepping stones. Mosaic stepping stones made with a mold are a very good beginner project. They do not require the use of glue or grout and can be completed in a couple of hours. The indirect method used for creating mosaics is often used for large projects. With this method the pieces are glued face down on a paper backing. When completed it is transferred to its permanent resting place, and once the mortar has dried the paper can be washed away.

This method is very useful for large projects as it gives the artist time to rework areas. Floors, murals benches and table tops are examples of where you would use this method. Just add concrete in the mold, then press your mosaic stepping stone tile in the wet concrete and release it from the mold when the concrete has dried.

Slabs, tiles or wood?

Slabs of sandstone and other rocks that are easily split along a stratum make ideal stepping stones. They have a flat surface, often with small raised lines. The overall thickness may not be uniform, making laying the stones more difficult. Cotswold or Yorkshire stone is traditional and popular; sandstone is also imported from India and China.

Manufactured paving slabs and tiles, in a range of sizes, are available from builders' suppliers and DIY stores and can look very authentic. The colours remain true over many years and it is possible to buy them with the surface displaying the exposed aggregate. Bricks and small natural or manufactured cobbles and setts may be bedded together in concrete to form square or rectangular patterns. Glazed tiles and marble slabs look wonderful but tend to be dangerously slippery when wet or if grass clippings stick to the damp surface.

Hardwood timber rings of beech, oak or ash have a natural appearance. It is best to remove the bark as this quickly deteriorates and separates from the timber. To prevent the rings from splitting they should be at least 4in thick and the wood seasoned. In wet areas the wood may remain slippery for most of the year. If you can live with the look, fixing fine-gauge galvanised chicken wire to the surface solves the problem.

Stepping Stones in Gravel

Stepping stones in gravel Where the stepping stones are surrounded by gravel, spread the dry mortar 2in-4in beyond each tile and rake the gravel over it, with the finished level below the top of the slab. The gravel closest to each stone will be less likely to scatter. Where small foot-square slabs are being used, they may be laid with the corners pointing in the direction of the path. This provides more space for your feet. Where space allows, a staggered double line of slabs with 10in-12in between each line makes for comfortable walking side by side with a friend.

Stepping stones in grass

Where stepping stones are being laid through grass, space them out on the lawn in the direction that you want. Walk the path, adjusting the spacing until you arrive at a pattern that suits everyone. You want to be at ease without appearing to mince or goose step.

When satisfied with the spacing and direction, cut around the slabs using a sharpened straight-bladed spade or turf edger. Lift the slab and remove the turf without damaging the surrounding grass. Dig out the topsoil and any stones to the depth of the slab plus at least 2in.

Unless the ground is very soft or loose, there is little need for a deep hard-core base. The path can only be used by pedestrians so a 2in layer of compacted sand or half an inch of broken stone will form a suitable base.

Where the slabs or small sets are being bedded in mortar, use a mixture of five parts sand to one part cement. Keep the mixture dry and level each slab as it is placed.